Sara Jenkins on Porchetta, Olives and Oranges, and Eating Out in NYC

By Louise McCready

Sara Jenkins, daughter of food writer, journalist, and historian, Nancy Harmon Jenkins, and award-winning foreign correspondent, Loren Jenkins, drew inspiration from a childhood spent traveling around the Mediterranean for her new cookbook, Olives and Oranges [buy on Amazon]. After stints cooking in Boston, Tuscany, and at I Coppi, Il Buco, 50 Carmine in New York, she has opened up Porchetta, her own critically acclaimed sandwich spot in the East Village. It is safe to say that the pigs that end up in one of Jenkins's incredible porchetta sandwiches have definitely lived high on the hog.

Your cookbook, Olives and Oranges, is up for an International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Award for the International category. How does it feel?

It feels great. The cookbook took a long time to do from start to finish--it took at least three years--so it's exciting that all that work paid off. More rewarding than the award is the response that I'm getting from people who say, "I love cooking from it." "It makes sense." "It makes food accessible." All these things I wanted to do.

What is your favorite cookbook?

My favorite cookbook is an odd little book my aunt gave me from her stay in Burma in the early 60's called Rangoon International Cookbook, put out by the Women's Society of Christian Service of the Methodist English Church. It's as a fascinating reference and window into time as it is a collection of great Burmese recipes and also strange Middle American and English recipes. In terms of practical cooking advice though I turn most often to my mother's Mediterranean Diet [buy on Amazon].

Olives and Oranges emphasizes fresh ingredients and learning how to use those ingredients. I know Sullivan Street Bakery provides the ciabatta roll for your sandwich, but who supplies your meat?

I use two different purveyors for my meat. One breed of pig called Hampshire is raised on Amish farms, and I also use Niman Ranch pork.

In New York Magazine's review, the Underground Gourmet pointed out that you opened Porchetta at an opportune time when everyone loves pig and people can't afford much more than a sandwich. Are you planning on expanding?

I would love to expand. The idea of Porchetta is definitely a marketable concept. I think that it would do well in other towns and in other areas of this town.

Anything at the moment?

Nothing lined up.

You've said that the first thing you do when you step off the airplane in Italy is you get porchetta. Is there a particular place that's your favorite?

No, not so much. Where the airplane lands in Rome, it lands right near the little fishing village of Fiumicino (also the name of the airport), and there's a porchetta stand there. It's not the greatest, but it's good. After you've been on this long flight, it's nice to go breathe some sea air, stretch your legs, and get a porchetta sandwich. The town where my family has a house, Cortona, always has porchetta in the market, so if I don't get it off the plane, I get it at the market.

Other than porchetta, what is your favorite type of sandwich?

I would have to say a croque monsieur.

Any chefs in New York that you particularly admire, or restaurants that you enjoy going to?

I'm on this ethnic eating binge and there's a place in Kensington Brooklyn called AM Thai Chili Basil Kitchen. It's a hole in the wall with this awesome Thai chef there. I love Mark Ladner at Lupa. He's a great chef and hard worker. Gabrielle Hamilton at Prune.

Who has been your greatest culinary influence?

My mother and my neighbor in Italy, Mita Antolini.

What is the most valuable piece of advice you've been given in the kitchen?

Make it work.

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Porchetta

Location: 110 E 7th Street, between 1st Ave and Ave A in the East Village
Hours: Open daily, 11:30am-1am
Reservations: Not accepted

Get more information about Porchetta on Savory Cities.

Photo: Carla Roley