Results tagged: Bar Boulud

By Louise McCready

Babbo pastry chef Gina DePalma earned this year's James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year.  An Italian-American New Yorker, DePalma earned critical acclaim for her 2007 cookbook, Dolce Italiano [Buy on Amazon].  A year after she was first diagnosed with ovarian cancer, DePalma launched the Cowgirl Cure Foundation to increase public awareness of and find a cure for ovarian cancer. This past week, DePalma took a break from her busy schedule to discuss spices, gelato, and cowgirling up.

LM: First, congratulations on winning the James Beard Award.  After being nominated several times in the past, what do you think separated you most from the rest of the competition this year?  

GD: After 7 nominations, I don't think it's about separating me or looking at my work because I never think it's a competition. Everyone who's nominated wins because your work is already being recognized.

What made winning the Beard Award neat for me was to be able to stand up and publicly thank Joe [Bastianich] and Mario [Batali] for everything that they've done for me--for 11 years of standing by me and making everything happen. The minute I was sick, they didn't stop, and they've been just beside me every step of the way.

Tomorrow evening Per Se kicks off its An American Table at Per Se dinner series with special guest Wells Guthrie of Sonoma County's Copain Wine Cellars. The series will allow guests to experience limited production American wines alongside a seven-course tasting menu, "specially crafted to highlight the old world nuances and flavors reflected in the wines." In addition, each guest winemaker will lead a discussion around their techniques, influences and personal winemaking style.

We spoke with Guthrie recently to learn about Copain, his background and his past experience working with the team at The French Laundry and Per Se.

How long has Copain been around?

1999 was our first vintage. We did a whopping 300 cases.

How much are you producing now?

For our vineyard designated wines, we do about 4,000 cases. That's split over six different Pinots, a few Syrahs, so about 10 wines. We have an appellation wine called Tous Ensemble, which means "all together." The appellation wines that we make are more readily accessible.

How did you get into winemaking?

I started working at Wine Spectator. I worked there for two years as their tasting coordinator in San Francisco. I set up all of the tastings for the domestic wines. I got to taste all of the wine, which was cool. Getting to taste 3,000 to 4,000 wines a year gets your palette honed for what you do and don't like.

RECENTLY OPENED
Eighty One
Olana (soft open)
Pata Negra

OPENING SOON
Ciaobella
Sheridan Square - Gary Robbins (formerly of The Biltmore Room & The Russian Tea Room) new project
Bar Milano - Jason Denton's new project
Terroir - A new wine bar from Paul Grieco and Marco Canora

THIS WEEK'S RESTAURANT REVIEWS
NY Times: Frank Bruni gives 3 of 4 stars to newcomer Dovetail, "[Chef John Fraser] and his pastry chef, Vera Tong, come at their cooking with intellect and wit, but they seldom get too cerebral, too cute. Leaving quotation marks out of the titles of dishes, they leave it to you to make certain connections."
 
Peter Meehan checks out Gazala Place which serves Druse cuisine (a regional middle eastern cuisine).

NY Mag: Adam Platt gives 1 of 5 stars to Bar Boulud, "Daniel has a genius for imbuing earthy farmhouse recipes with his own light, gourmet touch, but at this early date, the entrées at Bar Boulud could come from any number of semi-reputable bistros around town."

Bloomberg: Ryan Sutton reviews weeks old Madaleine Mae and Merkato 55 and likes both.

The New York Sun: Paul Adams visits the new east village "Tosc-Mex" (Tuscan-Mexican), Matilda and for the most part likes it.

The New York Daily News: RG gives  2 of 4 stars to Bar Boulud. Agreeing with Platt that the charcuterie is very enjoyable, she refers to executive chef Danian Sansonetti's food as "undistinguished."

BLOGS AND NEWSLETTERS
Gothamist: Joe DiStefano goes to Soba Totto.
Eater goes inside Commerce.

READING LIST
Very Short List brings this book to our attention via their daily emails: "The Warmest Room in the House." A non-fiction book looking at the history "of the American diet in the 20th century. But he also includes the evolution of kitchen technology, architecture, design."

EVENTS AROUND TOWN
Next week:
StreetWise Partners presents Taste of Success, a food and wine tasting event. Funds raised from the event help StreetWise Partners fulfill their mission of building mentoring relationships between low-income individuals and volunteer business professionals to develop workplace skills and employment networks as the bridge to a successful career. Participating restaurants include Beppe, Essex, I Tre Merli, Sigiri, Cowgirl, Avra Estiatorio and Mercadito.

   

Visit the StreetWise Partners web site to purchase tickets.

Looking ahead:
Tuesday, March 4th Michael Ruhlman hosts an offal tasting with guest chef and blogger Chris Cosentino of Incanto at the Astor Center. ($250/ticket)

AND FURTHERMORE...
Greatest press release of last week was from PR rep Linda Funk of boutique firm, Food Insight located in Urbandale, IA. From the release, we learn that the "Nationally Known Wisconsin Cheese Marketer Buys Tenessee "Cannabis Cave" To Create Agri-Tourism Opportunities." I almost dismissed the release but was intrigued by  the "Cannabis Cave." It's too good not to read for yourself, so borrowing a page from our friend Madame Snack,  here's the release in its entirety:

Nationally Known Wisconsin Cheese Marketer Buys Tennessee " Cannabis Cave " To Create Agri-Tourism Opportunities

Fermo Jaeckle is well-known in the dairy industry as a co-founder of the Monroe, Wisconsin-based Roth Käse USA, which has gained fame and many awards for its artisan cheeses.  So it's not surprising that some people were taken aback recently when Jaeckle purchased a Tennessee cave that was at the center of an infamous marijuana growing operation.

The cave, located 40 miles from Nashville, made headlines in 2005 after a Drug Enforcement Task Force researched and built a case over a five year period of time prior to moving in to shut down the illicit pot growing operation. It turns out that, concealed under a million dollar vacation home, was the entrance to an ancient, natural cave, housing a massive marijuana farm, with high-tech lighting and climate-control systems to nurture over 1,000 hydroponically grown pot plants.  Besides a massive growing room, parts of which are 20 ft. high, the cave was also outfitted with offices, a kitchen, bedrooms and restrooms.  The Drug Enforcement authorities say the owners of the cannabis cave had made millions of dollars selling the pot over several years.

The area Drug Task Force arrested the pot farmers and seized the property. The house burned down some time later, under mysterious circumstances. The house fire caused little damage to the complex 150 feet under it, however, and in December the Drug Task Force auctioned off the property with the unique cave improvements intact.

That's where Fermo Jaeckle came in.  He heard about the auction from his attorney, Rowland Lucid.  Because Fermo's brother Andre lives in Tennessee they decided it might be great property for legitimate agricultural use.

Jaeckle admits that he was surprised to hear that he had made the winning bid.  Now that he, his brother Andre, along with their cousins Ulrich and Felix Roth, and long time business associates, Steve McKeon and Nella DiManno own the property, they are eager to utilize the amazing improvements made to the cave by the previous owners, and are evaluating multiple options. While some high-tech scenarios are possible, other potential uses reflect time-honored agricultural practices.

Caves, with their constant temperature and absence of natural light, have long been used in food production such as aging wine and growing mushrooms.  And, in the industry closest to Jaeckle's heart, caves have traditionally been used to age cheese.  For example, the classic Gruyere cheese made by Roth Käse USA in Wisconsin is aged to perfection in temperature- and humidity-controlled curing cellars. For centuries this process was often best done in caves.

While Jaeckle and the other owners intend to form a partnership with Roth Käse to distribute products grown or processed at the Tennessee property, Roth Käse does not own the cave property and will not move any of its production to Tennessee .

The owners are exploring how they might work with local Tennessee agricultural concerns to create products for the marketplace at this property.  This approach reflects how Jaeckle and others worked with a team of skilled cheesmakers, managers and marketers to develop Roth Käse into a leading maker of authentic cheeses.  In addition, Roth Käse's Wisconsin plant has become a tourist destination, with a gift shop and self-guided tours through a specially constructed observation gallery in the cheese production facility.

Jaeckle and his partners see exciting possibilities for converting the notorious pot cave into an agricultural and agri-tourism facility. With the money they paid for the cave property going to support drug enforcement programs, and with the prospect of creating a productive agricultural enterprise, the owners are on their way to transforming this former enterprise for "potheads" into one for, ------ you guessed it.----- "Cheeseheads."

NEW VIDEOS ON SAVORY NEW YORK

Chef and co-owner Chris Santos talks about The Stanton Social's "take and pass" ethos, its multiple spaces and multicultural share plate menu.

Kaiseki restaurant Rosanjin, steakhouse Dylan Prime and Viet Cafe in TriBeCa.

New York Theatre District favorites Sardi's, Carmine's, Angus McIndoe and Natsumi. 

RECENTLY OPENED
Mia Dona
Tre Dici Steak
Zen Burger
La Zarza
Gallo Nero
Nomado 33
Patisserie des Ambassades (Chelsea location)

OPENING SOON
Olana
Eighty-One
Sheridan Square
Terroir
Ciaobella
Bar Milano
Pata Negra

THIS WEEK'S RESTAURANT REVIEWS
NY Times: Bruni dines with former mayor Ed Koch, writer Nora Ephron and food historian, Laura Shapiro at 2nd Avenue Deli and says,  (1 of 4 stars) "After a two-year absence it's back, rejoining Katz's and the Carnegie among a handful of old-timers devoted to Jewish deli food, which isn't just about eating."

NY Mag jumps in the time machine and gives Adam Platt the week off.

Bloomberg: Ryan Sutton goes to South Gate and Commerce. 
NY Observer: Moira Hodgson dines at Dovetail.
The New York Sun: Paul Adams dines at Dovetail.
The New York Daily News: RG dines at  Bar Boulud (2 of 4 stars)

BLOGS AND NEWSLETTERS
Gothamist: Joe DiStefano goes to Sakae Sushi.
Gotham Gal goes to Commerce and really likes it.

EVENTS AROUND TOWN

To do now:   
Avoid the disappointment and melee of Valentine's day and make a reservation to go out next week.

Looking ahead:
Tuesday, March 4th Michael Ruhlman hosts an offal tasting with talented guest chef Chris Cosentino at the Astor Center. ($250/ticket)

Thursday, February 28th Taste of Success food and wine tasting event at Studio 450. Find out more info and how to buy tickets here.

AND FURTHERMORE...
The funniest post we've read all week  is at Gothamist.  Eater has continuing coverage.

RECENTLY OPENED

Adour
Bagatelle
Bar Blanc
Bar Boulud
Bar Veloce (rerun)
Padre Figlio
Persephone
Sakae Sushi

OPENING SOON

Mia Dona
Sheridan Square
Commerce
Bar Tano
Cognac
The Red Head
Toby's Public House

THIS WEEK'S RESTAURANT REVIEWS

The New York Times
Frank Bruni: "Ilili is Beirut by way of Istanbul and Athens and even Barcelona: a broad swath of the Mediterranean comes into play, though the tropes, scents and seasonings of the Middle East remain squarely in the foreground."  (1 of 4 stars)

Peter Meehan visits Abraco Espresso and Julia Moskin checks out Community Food and Juice.

New York Magazine
Adam Platt 2 of 5 stars Bar Blanc, "The three house pastas (particularly a wheel of lasagne made with minced lamb, and a bowl of orecchiette with braised rabbit) are worth the price of admission" and likens Brasserie 44 (0 of 5 star) to , " a run-of-the-mill breakfast joint in some mid-level Hong Kong business hotel."

Bloomberg
This week Ryan Sutton visits 2 spots; Chop Suey (Zak Pelaccio/Will Goldfarb) and more than likes everything about it, except for desserts which he called, "not up to speed." Second entry is about Soba Totto, the sister restaurant to Yakitori Totto. About the unfamiliar foods served at this Itzakaya, "Totto looks like a sushi bar. Except the chefs wield sticks of land-roving flesh. They lay the morsels atop a charcoal grill. They sprinkle salt here. Pepper there. Everyone watches. I salivate. Ask for a seat at the blond counter. Order meat. Lots of it."

Time Out: Reviews Momofuku Noodle Bar now that they're in their new space (4 out of 6 stars)
NY Observer: Belcourt (1 out of 4 stars) likes the atmosphere more than the food.
The New Yorker: Positive review for the Theatre district's, Omido.
The New York Post: Steve Cuozzo reviews Chop Suey and says that it, "is actually not terrible. It is, in fact, very good, if you don't mind radioactive-orange seats that look more '60s than '00s."
The New York Sun: Paul Adams gives a mixed, yet erring on the side of negative, review of Bun.
Village Voice: Robert Sietsema reviews Peter's Since 1969.

BLOGS AND NEWSLETTERS

Gothamist: Secret take-out menu at Pamplona
Augieland has a few choice words about his dinner at Adour
Ed Levine: Perhaps inspired by the insipid weight watchers campaign, "Live or Diet" Ed has embarked on the "Ed Levine Serious Diet." In our opinion, a diet better than anything WW or Jenny Craig could propose. Ed is on week 4 and notes it as, the toughest week yet. We're with you Ed.
Daily Candy: wants their share of pancakes this weekend at Clinton St. Baking Co. & Restaurant 
Rare Daily : puts up "The Ultimate Valentine's Day Dining Guide"
NYCnosh writes up East Japanese restaurant - the one next door to Yakitori Totto
Andrea Strong: reviews Seymour Burton, "I left Seymour Burton very happy that I had come again."

EVENTS AROUND TOWN

To do now...
Cassolet is cooking in the upstairs and downstairs fireplaces at Savoy. This yearly tradition is on until end of Feb.

Looking ahead...
Sun Feb 10th at the Beard House: Valentine's tea featuring 8 great NYC chefs like, the women of Little Giant and Gramercy Tavern pastry chef, Nancy Olson. $75 for members, $95 for non-members