Results tagged: Di Fara

New Yorkers love pizza, and a bevy of new spots (Co., Keste Pizza e Vino, Motorino, Pizza Mezzaluna, San Marzano, Spunto, and Tonda) attest we're in the Golden Age of Pizza. However, only one--Keste Pizza e Vino--is certified-authentic Neapolitan wood-fired pizza, and if you've ever traveled to Naples or tried an authentic Neapolitan pizza, you remember the difference. Roberto Caporuscio, the American-chapter President of Associazone Pizzaiouli Napoletana, has been making thin, 10-inch pizzas at Keste since March. Recently, I visited Keste to discuss pizza, watch Roberto at work, and taste a little bit of Naples. Roberto has plans to open a pizza making school, but until then, learn from the master.

LM: You are a former farmer and onetime mozzarella-maker, what initially attracted you to start making pizzas?

RC: I wanted a change in my life, so I decided to go make pizza. The foods that I love are pizza and gelato. There's no school for making gelato, so I went to school for pizza and worked in Naples.

How old were you when you decided to start making pizzas?

37 years old.

How many years ago was that?

11.

You serve as the U.S. delegate for the Associazone Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, an organization that seeks to preserve Neapolitan pizza-making traditions and pass them down to a new generation.

More than that, what they try to do, they try to promote the pizza maker. Again, the pizza maker is the most important thing to preserve the pizza. You can't preserve the pizza without the pizza maker.

What defines an authentic Neapolitan pizza?

Chris and I decided to swing by Lucali the other night for dinner. It's the second time we've visited and we walked away this time thinking that the pizza has improved. That's not to say that on our first visit we were disappointed - on the contrary - we were pleased.
    About a month before Lucali opened, we went out to Midwood for DiFara's pizza, which was absolutely worth the trek plus the hour-and-a-half wait for a pie. About 2 months after our first visit to Lucali, we ventured to Coney Island for pie at Totonno's. Chris and I left agreeing that DiFara's was #1. That brings us to our second visit to Lucali. I know this is crazy talk, but Lucali is almost, almost as good as DiFara's and a heck of a lot closer. I'd even wager that given another month of turning out pizza, Lucali could even beat DiFara in my little race for #1.*
    Lucali's is located in Carroll Garden.  Candles on the tables offer about 90% of the light in the restaurant, which makes for a kind of romantic setting (Lady and the Tramp style, minus the checkerboard tablecloths and spaghetti). Mark Iacono, the owner and pizzaiolo is working away in the back making pizza's by candlelight, listening to Italian classics on a small stereo. Ordering is simple. Pizza. That's it. You'll have to ask your server for what topping options are available that night. We ordered pepperoni .
    Here's what we liked: thin crust, crisp pepperoni, nice cheese and the sauce. That's what got us. The sauce is really really good. I'm super sensitive to garlic** and I didn't really detect much, which for my tastes is a good thing. Nice hints of basil and a tiny touch of sweetness. Delicious.
    On a cold night, walking in and smelling the wood burning oven makes you feel warm immediately and splitting a pie for twenty bucks never tasted so good.

*yes, I am aware that there are more pizza joints than just DiFara, Totonno's, and Grimaldi's and John's (both of whom not mentioned here)...etc.
** I know, I know.