I never have figured out how Capsouto Freres became so incredibly popular. Perhaps it is not so puzzling after all. It is possible to have a fine meal at the restaurant. All you have to do is order very carefully. Or adjust your expectations. - Ruth Reichl
The grand, loft-size dining room in Tribeca is as impressive as ever, but the French country cooking isn't quite as reliable as it once was. Served by a well...