Since they're baked in a pan, not directly on the oven's brick floor, their dough can be coated with olive oil, flavoring and burnishing it. It gets a nice, brittle crunch and a wonderfully chewy topping. The round pie is essentially the fine one sold at the Patsy's chain, which Ms. Angelis's husband owns. But next to the earthy, robust grandma, it seems a little tame. - Nick Fox
Upper West Side pizza purists can welcome another notable pie to the 'hood. Dean's brick ovens will churn out charred, thin-crust square pizzas teeming...
