If there is cachet in having an entrance even the average Mensa candidate can't find, the new Dovetail has it. But try to find that door. It leads to deliciously complex food by chef-owner John Fraser doled out by scrupulously trained servers. - Gael Greene
Careful readers will note that this is the kind of prim, overstudied Greenmarket cooking that I spend a good deal of time ridiculing in this column. But like all high-quality chefs, Fraser has a knack for shuffling traditional, populist flavors together in ingenious ways and making them his own. - Adam Platt
Both [John Fraser] and his pastry chef, Vera Tong, come at their cooking with intellect and wit, but they seldom get too cerebral, too cute. - Frank Bruni
This upscale gem joins a small class of UWS restaurants that could justify a special trip uptown. Though the earth-toned look smacks of a hotel restaurant and...
Dovetail seems at first like a version of Blue Hill transported north. - Leo Carey