If anyone can claim to be an expert on Neapolitan pizza, it’s Kesté’s Roberto Caporuscio: As president of the U.S. branch of the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, he’s top dog for the training and certification of pizzaioli (a former dairy farmer and mozzarella maker, he’s also intimately familiar with that most essential cheese).
The new Naples-style pizzeria on Bleecker Street—just across from the venerable New York pizzeria John's—calls itself Kesté, which means, "This is it" in Neapolitan slang (and, yes, you probably should take that for the boasting it sounds like). - Sarah DiGregorio