While the aesthetic may be trendy, the fish tacos are not. They appear minimalist: seared shards of tilapia on a single corn tortilla, topped with a crescent of avocado, a splash of salsa verde and purple pickled onions diced to an impressive fineness. Tastewise, however, they’re maximal, the fish startlingly crisp, its easy richness amplified by the sweet-sour mix of onions and salsa. - Matt Gross