Mercer Kitchen opened in 1998, and one of its attractions then is an attraction now: an underground space that looks like an improbably sexy rathskeller. Its darkness blurs flaws, making the food, like the diners, seem more appetizing. - Frank Bruni
This is less an example of back-to-basics cooking than it is a lesson in how a few ingredients, perfectly balanced, can create flavors that are lucid and compelling. - Hal Rubenstein