Philoxenia has become so much more of a restaurant than it was three years ago — was that kid out on the curb really offering valet parking? — that in my Chicken Little way I got worried. Worried that the homey simplicity of the old place would be gone, and that the human touch in the kitchen would be gone too. But with the first plate of octopus, my fears were extinguished. - Peter Meehan
Mother-and-daughter team Dionysia Germani and Nancy Gavopoulou reopened their shuttered, once-popular taverna in a larger space, complete with a roaring hearth....