Among the appetizers are plenty of unexpected dishes or dishes with clever twists. Instead of crab cakes, Stone Park serves bluefish cakes, taming the assertiveness and oiliness of the fish by smoking it with alder chips and then flaking, breading and pan-searing it. The result was terrific, and the restaurant garnished the crisp cakes with a fantastic slaw that used celery root in place of cabbage and threw in capers. - Frank Bruni